We actually have a ticket that would allow us to stay in Petra for three days. But after two days, we have wandered so far that we are completely exhausted, both physically and mentally.
So we set off again, heading for Mount Nebo, where Moses, the former leader of the people of Israel, was buried by God himself.
Dana Biosphere Reserve
On the way to the Dana Reserve, we see a nice fruit and vegetable store that makes us want to go shopping.
We then drive along the edge of the mountain, which drops steeply down to the Arava Desert. The reserve is also located on this steep slope.
The Dana Biosphere Reserve is an area of breathtaking natural beauty, history and biodiversity. As the only reserve in Jordan that encompasses the country’s four different biogeographical zones (Mediterranean, Irano-Turanian, Saharo-Arabic and Sudanic), the area is a melting pot of diverse species from Europe, Africa and Asia. Such a combination of natural communities in one area is unique in Jordan and many animals and plants in the Dana Biosphere Reserve are extremely rare. To date, a total of 800 plant species and 449 animal species have been recorded in the reserve, 25 of which are known to be endangered, including the sand cat, Arabian wolf, lesser kestrel and uromastyx.
As you are only allowed to hike here with a guide, we only stay one night, but enjoy the impressive landscape, even if the heavy haze detracts somewhat from the experience.
Down to the Dead Sea
The Dana Reserve lies at an altitude of around 1500 meters. From here we descend into the valley of the Dead Sea, which lies at -400 meters. Today we are once again grateful that we replaced our engine brake (dynamic pressure brake) in South Africa, as the approximately 1900 m that the road takes us down would otherwise not have been so easy.
Wadi Numeira
The first highlight at the Dead Sea is the Wadi Numeira. We take a relaxed walk through the beautiful sandstone gorge and enjoy the babbling brook that has found its way between rocks and through gravel. The air here is pleasantly cool and therefore very relaxing.
At the Dead Sea
The Dead Sea is a salt lake whose shores are more than 400 meters below sea level, the lowest point on dry land. Thanks to its famous hypersaline waters, it is easy for people to float on the surface. The mineral-rich black mud is used for therapeutic and cosmetic treatments in the area’s resorts. The surrounding desert is home to numerous oases and historical sites.
And “Moevenpick” again
We want to have a coffee and eat another Moevenpick ice cream. So we visit the Moevenpick Hotel at the northern end of the Dead Sea. The free coffee we are served in the dining room tastes terrible. Unfortunately, the restaurants are not yet open, so we wait by the hotel pool. We then have a delicious lunch with a Moevenpick ice cream to finish. The meal is good, but far too expensive compared to what is on offer.
The Moses mountain Nebo
In the afternoon we drive up to Mount Nebo. We spend the night on an exposed mountain flank. Unfortunately, the haze again prevents us from seeing far.
The mountain
Mount Nebo in the Abǎrim Mountains is a foothill of the plateau that slopes down to the Dead Sea. At a height of 808 m, it offers a view of the Jordan Valley, the Dead Sea and Israel.
According to the Old Testament, Mount Nebo is the mountain from which Moses was allowed to see the Promised Land, but had to die without having entered it himself(Deuteronomy 32:48-50 and 34:1-5). The religious significance of this mountain was described by Pope Benedict XVI during his pilgrimage to the Holy Places on 9 May 2009 in the following way: “From this holy mountain, Moses directs our gaze […] to the fulfillment of all God’s promises in Christ”.
The Nebo Church
A church was built on the top of the mountain around 393 and has been remodeled ever since. In the 7th century, the summit of Mount Nebo was a popular destination for pilgrims. Only a few remnants of the original church remain – stone blocks and parts of the mosaic floor.
The current church on the Nebo has been owned by the Catholic Franciscan order since 1932. It exhibits mosaics with hunting scenes, lions and gazelles. The baptistery from 531 AD contains a mosaic from the 6th century, also depicting animals. A modern monastery was built next to it for the Franciscans, which also houses archaeologists.
Madaba – city of mosaics
Not far from Mount Nebo lies the city of Madaba. Madaba means “water of tranquillity”.
The city founded by the Moabites is mentioned several times in the Bible (e.g. Numbers 21:30, Joshua13:9-16). It therefore belonged to the territory of the Israeli tribe of Reuben.
In the 1st century BC, the city came under Nabataean rule, from 106 AD it was part of the Roman province of Arabia. In the 4th century, the city was the seat of a bishop, and in 614 it was conquered by the Persians. In 746, an earthquake destroyed the city, which was then abandoned by the inhabitants and became deserted. In 1880 it was repopulated by Christians, and ancient mosaics were found under the rubble. In 1897 there were still remains of 10 churches, but these had already been integrated into residential buildings, and since the end of the 19th century numerous churches and houses with well-preserved mosaics have been uncovered in the town. The mosaic map of Madaba, a map of Palestine from the 6th century, is considered to be particularly significant.
We are allowed to park in the central bus parking lot and also spend the night here. A tour of the town with its interesting church ruins and mosaics is well signposted and laid out as a circular tour.
Archaeological Park
The Madaba Archaeological Park was opened in 1995 to preserve and make accessible to the public the Roman Road, a testimony to Roman times, and some valuable Byzantine mosaic floors.
A rarity and one of the highlights of Jordan’s mosaic art is the floor of Hippolytus Hall, on which an ancient myth is told. Together with the ruins of the round Church of the Virgin Mary, it is protected by a stone building designed by Ammar Khammash.
Church of the Martyrs
The basilica, which dates back to the 6th century and measures 32 x 16 m, had three doors on the façade. The plinths and columns as well as the capitals and steps were reused from older Roman buildings.
The mosaic had already been damaged in earlier times and suffered further damage during the excavations. Despite the iconoclastic mutilation of the mosaic floor, which was repaired by filling the holes with lime mortar, the decoration is still recognizable in its basic features and in many of its motifs.
St. George’s Church
The Greek Orthodox Church was built between 1894 and 1897. The mosaic floor was discovered by workers when they were removing old rubble for the construction of a new church in 1896. They uncovered a mosaic depicting an old map of the Holy Land from the 6th century. This map now attracts thousands of visitors here.
The Haret Jadoudna restaurant
Our lunch in the shady courtyard of the restaurant is an experience in itself. The Jordanian meal is delicious. But we also enjoy quietly observing the hustle and bustle. The Haret Jadoudna consists not only of the beautiful inner courtyard, but also several larger and smaller dining rooms nested inside each other and up and down stairs.
Church of St. John the Baptist
This early 20th century Roman Catholic church has been transformed into a fascinating destination by restoring the ancient sites on which it stands. The jewel of the complex is the Acropolis Museum, housed in the church’s vaulted basement. A well from the time of the Moabites 3000 years ago is still in operation here.
Apostle Church
This unassuming-looking church is home to a remarkable mosaic dedicated to the twelve apostles. The embroidery-like mosaic was created in 568 AD and is one of the few examples where the name of the artist (Salomios) is given. The central section shows Thalassa, a female personification of the sea, surrounded by fish and slippery sea creatures. Native animals, birds, flowers, fruit and cherubic faces decorate the corners.
Our tour is over and we return to our vehicle, spend the night in the parking lot and drive on past Amman to Jerash the next day.
