The Etosha National Park covers an area of 22,000 km2, of which 5,000 km2 is the Etosha Pan. In 1907, Friedrich von Lindequist, then Governor of German Southwest Africa, decreed the protection of the Etosha Pan and the areas to the south and east of it, a total of 100,000 km2. The Etosha National Park is accessible by about 700 km of gravel roads. Due to the enormous size of the area, animal observation is mainly concentrated on the existing natural and artificial waterholes, which, however, do not always carry water.

In addition to two high-priced lodges, 4 fenced-in rest camps (rest camps) offer accommodation in bungalows and on the campsite. Each rest camp has a filling station, one or more small stores (essential food and souvenirs), a swimming pool and a floodlit waterhole where the animals can also be observed in the evening and at night.

Wifi is available in the restaurant area, internet via SIM card theoretically too. However, the system seems to be so overloaded that even the simple downloading and uploading of e-mails was difficult or even impossible. It’s no wonder that you see national park employees more glued to their smartphones than to their work, or that the overlander groups have to connect with the wider world as soon as they arrive or get up. In any case, working on the website is out of the question.

We visit Etosha National Park from east to west from May 27 to June 12, 2016 and take a good 14 days for game viewing. It is not easy to select a few suitable pictures from the flood of images.

Namutoni

Two days / three nights Namutoni. Looking back, it was one of the best camps for us. Here, the waterholes are relatively close for animal watching.

At sunrise on the first morning, we drive straight to the Chudop waterhole. “There’s nothing going on!” Yawning emptiness. We stay – and soon afterwards the first small herd of zebras strides towards the water – then the first giraffes – then …. The whole morning is full, a constant coming and going. However, the animals are very skittish. Even birds flying over them frighten them. Giraffes sometimes need up to three quarters of an hour before they dare to drink. An impressive morning.

We spend lunch at the camp. There is always something to do. Later we drive to the Klein Namutoni waterhole with exciting experiences.

Tomorrow is another day – our hyena and rhino day!

We bob along the edge of the Etosha Pan – on the way to Halali.

Tally-ho

On the way to Halali we visit Goa’s double waterhole . A small herd of elephants is trampling out of the mopane bushes.

We spend 3 days / 4 nights at Camp Halali, or rather in the area surrounding the camp. To the east are extensive mopane forests. Finally, deciduous trees again. The falling leaves remind us of fall in Switzerland – but here winter has arrived with daytime temperatures of over 25°.

We are initially disappointed with the game viewing opportunities at Halali. No lions, nothing spectacular – until we drive out into the grass savannah to the west of the camp and observe huge herds of animals.

Near Halali, the endless expanse of the 50 km2 Etosha Pan also beckons. However, this is no substitute for the cats of prey that have still not been sighted. Always this jostling with the big cats! There are also other interesting animals.

And then our wish comes true!

In the early morning, a large lion rushes to the water at Rietfontein. He is extremely thirsty and hardly wants to stop drinking. We then follow him until he crosses the road and disappears into the bushes. Then even more lion luck. Four lionesses sunbathing in the tall grass at Charitsaub – unfortunately they are not so easy to photograph. But it’s still exciting, because they watch the small herd of zebras heading for the water …

Okaukuejo

Okaukuejo is the main camp of the Etosha National Park. The park’s administration is also based here. It’s not the most pleasant camp for us, as it’s very busy. At the famous waterhole you can hear the thump-thump-thump of the music from the bar, which disturbs the game viewing considerably.

We get pitch no. 35 on the campsite and realize that pitches 32 to 37 are among the most beautiful, as they are arranged along the fence with a view of the animals moving along the other side of the fence.

The waterholes around Okaukuejo are relatively far away. We are a little disappointed as our expectations were not met. But wait – there’s Nebrowni, which isn’t too far from the camp either. Here, for the first time, we see a colorful jumble of giraffes, oryx, springboks, zebras, ostriches … fantastic … and on the way back to camp a lioness crosses our road!

We do get one big surprise. Shortly after sunset at Gemsbokvlakte. Not everyone likes hyenas. However, they are a rarity and rarely seen, and when they are, it is usually in the early morning. They appear suddenly and unnoticed, and just as they come, they disappear again.

Etosha West

On the way to the west of the park – Olifantsrus – we search for more waterholes. We miss a male lion at the Ondeka waterhole. Too bad, but the ostriches standing on the salt pan are a small compensation. And then there is a pretty lioness lying in the low bushes. This is followed by the Ozonjuitji m’Bari waterhole. One of the lively waterholes where you should spend more time. Again and again a hustle and bustle of animals. Unfortunately, m’Bari is a bit far away from both Okaukuejo and Olifantsrus. About two to three kilometers before m’Bari until about one kilometer after Tobieroen, the gravel road is an imposition, a washboard track of the worst kind. Driving fast is risky, but reduces the vibrations noticeably, driving slowly (maximum 15 km/h) feels like riding a horse on the back of a western horse.

Olifantsrus

The new camp in the west of Etsoha National Park is small and has only 14 campsites, but also has a waterhole with an observation tower. The camp and the surrounding area are quiet. We like that.

The waterholes Tobieroen in the east and Jakkalswater to the southwest are active. Klippan in the west is a long way away, but its diversity of wildlife makes it a special place.

At the end of our stay in Etosha National Park, we had a little treat for ourselves. Three cubs are staying at Okawao and blocking the waterhole.

Tired but happy, we drive back to Windhoek on June 12, 2016. We receive a new additional diesel tank. Then we head further north to the Epupa waterfalls.

Etosha – the video

15 days in Etosha National Park in 18 minutes. Switch on the speakers, lean back and enjoy.