As the name “Transfrontier” suggests, the Kgalagadi – Kalahari National Park is a transfrontier park. It protects around 40,000 km2 of Kalahari semi-desert. It is jointly administered by South Africa and Botswana, which is why it is possible to enter the country from South Africa, Botswana and Namibia. The south-western and thus the South African part is well developed. The three large camps Twee Rivieren, Nossob and Mata Mata are fenced so that you can camp in peace, while the other camps, which consist of small huts or tents, are open. The main connecting roads consist of gravel or sand and are generally passable for cars, unless a thunderstorm has made the roads impassable. Rain or thunderstorm season is usually from December to April, but every rule is without exception. Then you’re glad to have a 4×4 and decent ground clearance.

Kgalakgadi map and brochure

From Twee Rivieren to Nossob

The 160 km on gravel and sand are difficult to ride in some places due to the “corrugated metal”. As we combine the trip to Nossob with game viewing, we need almost the whole day for this. The pure driving time is at least 4 hours, as you may not and should not drive faster than 40 km/h. Slowing down is recommended because you simply see more animals when you drive slowly.

Nossob

Camp Nossob is our favorite camp – yes, we are here for the third time today. So far we have always seen lions and cheetahs east or west of Nossob, even a spotted hyena.

Arriving at the Kwang waterhole, everything seems quiet, nothing is happening, only a few sparrowbucks cavort bored around the waterhole. There, a shadow in the backlight: not a beauty, but a rarity: the reclusive brown hyena. There’s not much time to take photos, and she’s already gone again.

We then drive to the Bedinkt waterhole – we have never seen anything here before, but today we are honored by a group of young lions with their mom. The two sons and the little daughter are about 1 1/2 years old.

From Nossob to Mata Mata

Out early again, as in addition to the 160 km that have to be covered mostly across the dunes, we also want to see some animals. And it’s worth it!

Shortly before the turn-off onto the dune road, at the “Dikbaardskolk” waterhole, we see lions – two males and one female. What’s going on here? Apparently the female has already chosen her mate, they have just come back from drinking and are lying down again, oh so tired.

But it gets even better on this hot day … but first we climb up and down the dunes between the Nossob and Auob dune valleys, which are surprisingly green …

Things are also lively in the Auob Valley. A pair of Europeans are on a discovery tour and we just have to join them …

The highlight of the day, however, is the pride of lionesses lazily lolling by the roadside – 13 lionesses!

Mata Mata

The campsite is not full this time. We look for a nice, quiet corner!

Another wonderful day full of surprises. We love the safari life and can spend hours at waterholes and watching animals. The pictures here are therefore only a reflection of what one feels far away from civilization, in the midst of wild animals and a fantastic landscape.

Dark clouds gather on the eve of our departure. We’ve been through this before – we only just managed to avoid getting stuck in the mud. Well, at least this time we have four-wheel drive and decent tires.

Well then, have a good trip to Twee Rivieren …

We didn’t take any photos of the worst stretch – no more road – because of the tension, what a shame.