{"id":26158,"date":"2025-01-24T12:00:22","date_gmt":"2025-01-24T10:00:22","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/onwheels.travel\/?p=26158"},"modified":"2025-09-10T16:36:54","modified_gmt":"2025-09-10T14:36:54","slug":"wadi-guhl-and-nizwa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/onwheels.travel\/en\/wadi-guhl-and-nizwa\/","title":{"rendered":"Wadi Guhl and Nizwa"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sultanate of Oman<\/strong><\/span><\/h1>\n

On December 21, we cross the border into Oman at Al Ain. Both leaving and entering the country are completely relaxed and uncomplicated. It is a wonderful feeling to finally be in Oman, the country that is praised and loved by all overlanders. <\/p>\n

The <\/b>Sultanate of Oman<\/b> is located in the north-east of the Arabian Peninsula. The approximately five million inhabitants<\/strong> live mainly in cities. This makes Oman, slightly smaller than Germany, one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world.
\nAlmost half of the population are immigrants<\/strong>, mainly from India. 95 percent of Omanis are Muslim, predominantly Sunni and Ibadi. The Sultanate is an absolute monarchy and also has a constitution<\/strong>. The ministers appointed by the Sultan and the two national parliaments only have an advisory function. <\/p>\n

In recent decades, Oman has developed from a severely underdeveloped to a moderately prosperous state. A United Nations report from 2013 names Oman as the country that has improved its social and economic situation the most in the last 40 years.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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From the border to Wadi Guhl
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Shortly after the border, we discover the historic Al-Marjab Fort, on the edge of the palm oasis with a beautiful view. The parking lot next to it is a good place for a lunch break. The journey continues initially over flat terrain. Towards evening, we take the short detour to Mamour Castle, a small castle, also on the edge of a palm oasis. And not far from there, we drive out into the desert, where we spend our first night in Oman.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

Al-Marjeb Fort<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n

The Marjeb Fortress was built about 260 years ago, around 1156 AD, during the reign of Imam Ahmed bin Saeed Al Busaidi, the founder of the Al-Busaidi dynasty, for defensive purposes and to protect the city, its people and property.
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Al-Mamour Castle
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A little off the road, in the small settlement of al-Ma’mur and on the edge of a palm oasis, lies this charming little clay castle. Unfortunately, it is closed and we cannot visit it from the inside.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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Ibri<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

In Ibri, we find an official water filling station where we can fill up with water free of charge. The staff are very friendly and courteous, indeed, they are happy to receive visitors from abroad.
\nOn the way through Ibri, we find a wonderful fruit and vegetable store. The owner is very enterprising and enthusiastic about his own range.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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Bahla<\/span><\/strong><\/h3>\n

The drive to Wadi Guhl takes us through the small town of Bahla with its huge castle complex, which can be seen far beyond the town.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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Wadi Guhl
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The Wadi Guhl is a mountain valley with an impressive canyon. From here, roads lead up into the mountains, especially to the highest mountain in Oman, Jebel Shams.
\nAs it is now very cold at this altitude, we don’t want to drive the mountain roads until February or March.
\nWe meet up with Jeanette and Martin from Switzerland in Wadi Guhl<\/strong>. We met in South Africa, in the Kruger National Park. Now the opportunity has arisen to see each other again. Martin and Jeannette work in the hospitality industry and are now enjoying their freedom without the stress of work.
\nAs Martin likes to light fires, we sit together comfortably around the fire in the evening. Martin puts a small bag of some substance in the fire so that the flames in the fire also flare up blue and green. Wonderful. Unfortunately, it is very cool at this altitude and at this time of year, especially after sunset. But the fire warms us up nicely,
\nAfter our meeting, Martin and Jeannette travel on to the United Arab Emirates and we drive to Nizwa.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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Nizwa
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Nizwa is located in the north of Oman, at the foot of the Hajar Mountains. Nizwa has always been a political and religious center of Oman<\/strong>. The first Ibadi imam was elected in 751. Nizwa was the capital until the 12th century, when Bahla assumed this role. In 1955, Sultan Said ibn Taimur gained control of the interior of the country with the help of the British. <\/p>\n

The city is dominated by a renovated souk and a castle with the thickest and tallest tower in Oman. Parts of the old town are still in ruins. The cattle market in Nizwa is well-known, but we plan to visit it at a later date.
\nWe are no longer used to tourists, so we are all the more surprised by the many foreign visitors here.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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In Nizwa, we prepare for the journey through the Rub al Khali desert. We buy SIM cards and replenish our supplies.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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Hassan’s Farm
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On the way to the Rub al Khali desert, we want to top up our water supplies. As there is nothing to be had at the water station here, a farmer takes us to his farm where we can actually fill up with water. Hassan and his family run a small farm and we wonder whether it’s possible to make a living here.
\nTwo other male family members also greet us. And the two sons are a little shy as they brush around us. Even Hassan’s wife with a small child in her arms greets us. But I’m not allowed to photograph her. It’s a shame, because her clothes are colorful and her headscarf looks more like a veil. So not as strict as in Saudi Arabia.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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The journey to al-Jubal<\/strong><\/span><\/h3>\n

Our desert tour should start in Al-Jubal. The drive there led through mostly flat terrain, through endless oil fields. However, we only found this out when the police ordered us away from an overnight stop in the desert. We moved a few kilometers and stopped again because I wanted to work on the website. As soon as we parked, the police came again and sent us away, even though there was no sign of any oil production facilities.
\nShortly before al-Jubal, another policeman wanted to send us away again. “This is not a tourist region”. We explained to him that we wanted to take the border road to Haima. Eventually he let us through and the journey through the desert could begin.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>

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