Livingstone – Lusaka

The border crossing between Zimbabwe and Zambia takes a while. But it runs smoothly, friendly and correctly. We drive to the “Dornbaum Lodge”, not far from the border. Here in the elephant belt you can stand on a meadow. However, the elephants are no longer there because the rainy season has begun and they have retreated to safer terrain.

After two nights we move on. We break the 500 km to Lusaka in Choma, where we are allowed to spend the night in the parking lot of a simple guesthouse.

In Lusaka, we first drive to the “East Park Mall”, a huge shopping center. At the request of my wife, I am looking for a hairdresser here. He has to start three times before I’m satisfied. Not with the cut, but with the shortness of the hair. I don’t want to have to look for a hairdresser again in three weeks’ time. But I’m extremely happy with the result. He cut my hair really well and she should win a medal for washing my hair with heart and soul.

Carnet de Passage

We have big plans for our second stay in Zambia. But the breakdown of our vehicle at the beginning of the trip caused us a delay of around two weeks and the rainy season unexpectedly set in, making it impossible to reach many destinations. As burnt children, we don’t want to sink into the mud and are therefore careful. Our program is kept to a minimum.

But there is a reason why we are still going to Zambia. In Lusaka – at Angus and Caroline’s – our new Carnet de Passage is waiting for us. This international customs document guarantees the customs authorities that a vehicle will be re-exported. At the end of the one-year term, however, it must be exchanged for a follow-up document. To do this, it is usually necessary to cross an international border. In our case, the old Carnet de Passage will be stamped at Zambian customs at the end of this stage (confirmation of departure) and the new Carnet de Passage will be stamped in Botswana. This must take place between November 23 and December 1, 2022. We are therefore bound by deadlines.

Khaya Nyasica

Khaya Nyasica is Angus and Caroline’s 20,000 m2 property. It is located on the outskirts of the city, north-east of Lusaka. You can camp here or rent a well-equipped rondavel.
Son and daughter live and England. This circumstance is symptomatic of a large part of the white population in southern Africa. The fact that it is becoming increasingly difficult for whites to attend good schools and study in southern Africa, and the fact that there are hardly any career prospects for many descendants of the white populationfamilies are torn apart. “The son lives in England, the daughter in Australia or in the USA or in Germany, etc.” is often said.

We already know Angus and Caroline from last year. We had a very good time with them back then. Yes, we were even spoiled – they even brought the hot coffee to our vehicle. This encounter is also cordial. They are two great hosts. I even fell in love with the Rhodesian Ridge Back bitch “Maisy”. Too bad I don’t have a picture of her.

Bonanza Golf Club

Angus joins us on a trip to Bonanza Golf Club. On the grounds of the golf club, which is open to the public, there is a sizeable brewery and the golf club’s large restaurant as well as several smaller stores and art galleries.

African Butterfly

Sally is a very kind and proactive person. In the miniature shopping village of the Bonanza Golf Club, she runs a store with her own brand: “African Butterfly”. Here you can buy fresh vegetables and preserves from our own production, as well as other items. On the second Saturday of every month, she organizes a small market with a few stalls, such as exclusive Zambian cheese, paintings, etc.

For lunch, she holds her homemade vegetable pies and falafel “under our noses” – and we take a bite! An extremely delicious lunch. Really fabulous! The whole atmosphere is relaxed – except for the one foreigner whose language we fortunately can’t guess. He buys lunch for one person and feeds his whole family from the buffet (3 adults and 2 children). It’s a shame that there are profiteers like this everywhere.

Lukasa in Lusaka

As we are standing on the ground with Angus and Caroline and the rain keeps coming down, we get a little restless. We are therefore moving – to the opposite side of the city. The Dutch couple Harry and Geke have already been to Africa themselves and then got stuck in Lusaka. Your house and garden have become a meeting place for overlanders. This is where we are now and we have to admit that the hospitality and attentiveness of the two Dutch people is exemplary and that the whole complex has nothing to fear from comparison. Well organized, everything works, everything is well done. A true joy and oasis.
Here we meet “old acquaintances” in particular (from left to right). For example, the “Dutch Troopy Travelers” from the Netherlands – Ed and Karin – who we have already met in Nairobi. Then Christine and Thierry with Iveco “Gandalf” and the English from “Sommer Travelling”, Charlotte and David, whom I know from Instagram.

Kafue

Today we set off for the Kafue River. As we always need bananas, we stop at the only and last market stall with bananas as we leave Lusaka. The tense woman is pleased that I am taking so many bananas and apples from her. As a market woman, she speaks good English and I learn from her that her life is a drudgery. She would probably be well educated compared to the average person here, but like so many others, she was unable to find a suitable job. Now she and her family live from selling bananas and apples and a few other fruits.
I walk back to our vehicle with the fruit. Two young women are standing on the path. One of them says to me, “I’m hungry”. “Do you like bananas”? “Yes”. So I take her to the banana stand and buy her two bananas.
Afterwards, three schoolgirls come up to me and shyly ask if they can have a banana too. OK. Another three bananas. I have to say that I had some nice encounters that day.

It is too far for us to travel to the Kafue River in a day. That’s why we spend the night on a private property that belongs to a local, but was once the headquarters of a young aid organization. We feel safe here – Zambia seems like a safe country to us. Although, as a tourist you can’t really judge that. However, the local population here is more open-minded and friendly towards us whites than we experienced in Namibia and South Africa. Apart from a few trucks rattling past, it is very quiet here at night.

Roy’s Camp

Roy’s Camp” is located directly on the Kafue River. We can’t yet decide to drive into the Kafue National Park, because it costs a lot again and it is doubtful whether we will get to see any animals in this huge park. In addition, parts of the park are no longer accessible to us due to the rain. In the end, we decide to just stay at Roy’s Camp, because we like it here.

Itezhi-Tezhi

Instead of continuing west on the M9 towards Mongu, we decide to take the “gravel road” D769, which takes us south to Itezhi-Tezhi. Brad and his wife run the Chibila Lodge there, directly on the Kafue Reservoir, where you can also camp on the “green”. We stay for two nights, after which we move on. We don’t like the hot and humid rainy season climate. For this reason, we are drawn towards Namibia.

Via Botswana to Namibia

We drive south from Itezhi-Tezhi. The road goes 130 km through the Kafue Nation Park and we don’t see a single game. From Kalomo we return to Livingstone via the tarred road, then to Kazungula and across the border to Kasane in Botswana, where we spend the night. The next day we drive on the main road through the Chobe National Park and across the Namibian border to Katima Mulillo. The end of this stage has been reached. But there is still rain in the air and loud music blares from the neighboring bar deep into the night. This prevents us from staying longer ….