The city was already an important trading center for trade with East Africa in the 6th century. After Sur came under Portuguese rule in the 16th century, it experienced a new boom as a center for trade with India and East Africa following its liberation by Nasir ibn Murschid (1624-1649). The decline of the city began when Great Britain enforced the ban on the slave trade in the middle of the 19th century. When the Suez Canal was opened in 1869 after the city was destroyed by the Wahhabis (1865), Sur finally lost its importance for trade with India.
The city of “Sur”
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Sunaysilah Fort
The Sunaysila Fortress is a former defensive structure to protect the city of Sur and was intended to house the inhabitants in the event of an attack. The fortress was probably completed in 1648 during the reign of the Imam of Oman Nasir ibn Murschid. From the castle you have a good view of the city of Sur.
The almost square inner courtyard measures approx. 30 m × 35 m and is surrounded by a wall, each corner of which is fortified with a round watchtower.
Sur impressions
Sur is very clean and seems rather tranquil compared to other cities. There is no hustle and bustle here. You can even feel it in the traffic. Although, this actually applies to the whole of Oman. This is certainly one of the many reasons why you feel completely at ease in Oman.
Dhow shipyard
For centuries, the beautiful Arabian sailing ships have shaped the culture, economy and identity of Oman.
The exact origin of the dhow is shrouded in the mists of history. Most historians disagree as to whether the dhow was invented by Arabs or Indians before the 7th century AD. However, there is evidence that similar ships already existed in ancient times.
In the past, Omani sailors sailed as far as the African coast, India and China. There were usually around 12 to 15 sailors on board. Their ships were used to transport slaves, precious stones, ivory, spices, pepper, cinnamon, silk and, of course, frankincense – the white gold.
(Aha, so the Arabs were involved in the slave trade and we are being led to believe that the “whites” mainly preyed on the slaves. In reality, the blacks themselves were the first to enslave black tribes, i.e. their own kind)
The large ocean-going sailing ships, called “Boom”, which had a cargo capacity of up to 500 tons, were actually still sailing until the 1970s. They were among the larger variants of the Arab sailing ships, with a crew of up to 30 men. Boom dhows were known for their robustness and reliability, as they could withstand the most adverse conditions on the Indian Ocean.
Although the magnificent wooden boats have been replaced by modern ships over time, dhow ships still play a role in the region’s culture and tourism. In Dubai – a lively dhow harbor still exists in the Dubai Creek. The fully loaded dhows that are on their way to Iran, for example, prove that dhows are still in use. In addition, there is still an active dhow shipyard on the island of Qeshm in Iran.
Today, only smaller dwellings are built. To ensure that the craftsmanship of dhow building is not forgotten, the state provides support. In addition, exhibits are built by hand and can be purchased, which is why we are now the proud owners of a small-scale dhow. It’s just too beautiful, this work in wood. Simply gorgeous.
So it’s no wonder that we leave the dhow shipyard delighted and satisfied. It was really worth it.
Ayja district
Today we stroll through the old alleyways of the Ayja district, which lies to the south of the harbor entrance. Many of the buildings have a palatial character. A sign that Sur must still be wealthy today.
Fort Bilad
Another fort – Fort Bilad – is located on the edge of the palm oasis of Sur. This two-hundred-year-old fort also served to protect the city against marauding Bedouin tribes. Yes, yes, those were still troubled times when everyone could do what they wanted. This is no longer the case today, as the legendary Sultan Qaboos bin Said brought order to his empire and led the run-down country into the modern age.
The fort is really worth seeing, but you have to be careful not to fall or twist your ankle on an unguarded threshold. On the other hand, there is more freedom for personal discovery here.
Wadi Tiwi
40 km north of Sur we reach the Wadi Tiwi. At the village of “Tiwi”, the Hajar Mountains drop steeply down to the sea. The wadi resembles a canyon-like valley surrounded by steep rock faces. It is said to have been inhabited continuously for at least a thousand years. Although the region is a desert, water drains from the mountain plateau in the northwest and flows in the upper part of the wadi all year round, even in times of drought, and there are many small pools. Irrigation channels have been constructed throughout the gorge, resulting in lush green vegetation, date palms, terraced farms and tall grasses in the wadi
We drive into Wadi Tiwi and notice that countless tourist vehicles are driving into the wadi. Before the road becomes a narrow track, we decide to avoid the wadi as we don’t fancy the crowds of tourists. We turn around. Nevertheless, even the beginning of the wadi reveals something of its beauty.
